Quote:
Originally Posted by GuidoK
If obd2 doesn't indicate that the mixture is too lean, the ecu itself doesn't know it. That means that probably your lambda probe is broken/not functioning properly.
It's the same as that you have a failsafe gauge installed which is broken....
So what's your point? You cant trust instruments that are broken?.... Really?
Maybe you should install a million backups... You know, just to be safe  |
Really don't know what you're trying to say here, other than you're way off topic of the original thread. Sounds like you don't have anything installed and haven't blown up your car yet. Congrats. You're running a kit that's been proven many times over, which is not the case with the Z4M VF kit. Besides having an instantaneous readout with a wide band gauge (which allows you to assess its function), you are maintaining the car's ECU as a backup. I guess primary + backup = 1000000?
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuidoK
But the statement you made earlier that obd2 wouldn't pick up a failing fuelpump is definately not true, no matter how you put it. And that is the starting point of this discussion, so really you're trying to change the subject.
If the diagnostics and ecu don't pick up a failing fuel pump, it means that both your fuel pump and ecu/sensors are broken. It's impossible not to detect the richness of the mixture, because otherwise the whole injection system with its fuel trims wouldn't work.
If you think otherwise, you diagnosed the problem wrong.
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It did not pick up a failing fuel pump. Dunno how many times I have to say it before you realize the light wasn't burned out; the ECU wasn't broken (because we're still using the same one); we're still on the same sensors; EVERYTHING is the same except the fuel pump and damaged parts. Of course there's a chance it could and would pick up a failing fuel pump, but it did not do it in time, and you cannot rely on a check engine light to determine your car's fuel trim.
What you missed is that there are certain parameters that must be exceeded for the car to throw a code. You can look at a gauge and ascertain that the car has proper AFR. Without one, you rely on the ECU to decide when the mixture has been out of parameters long enough to trigger a light... and that light may not come on soon enough. The light doesn't show up instantaneously as soon as the lean condition exists. It may be X number of iterations, rpm, seconds, who knows... the point is, don't trust it to come on prior to damage occurring. With a closed loop system, the ECU will attempt to adjust, and the whole time it's trying to adjust, that lean condition still exists. At what point does it throw in the towel and say something's wrong? That point can be beyond serious damage, like what happened with my father's engine. But whatever, some people can't be told anything and have to learn the hard way. There's a reason so many people install wide band gauges into their modified cars, and it's not just to look cool.
OBDII is slow. Most people don't even know what it is, judging by the number of people that post on here asking what their check engine light means without providing codes. They don't own code readers. The light is set to go off after the condition has existed for
a while, so clueless people aren't bitching that they have to pay $115 to run a diagnostic check at the dealer every other month... and dealerships aren't wasting time looking for non-existent problems under warranty. Anomalies are buffered out.
If you still don't believe me, try reversing your MAF sensor. See how long it takes your car to realize it. Then think about how much damage could take place at 8000 rpm and 175 hp/liter in that amount of time.