[papak]

I did this job yesterday on my '08 coupe. It took about 45 minutes in total. The single electrode NGKs are gapped to .043". Mine were correct out of the box. It helps to remove the right strut support rod. Like others here, I use a q-tip to run a little silicone brake caliper grease (inert and it has a very high melting point) in the snout and inside the rubber seal at the top. Having raced a variety of cars over the years with aluminum heads, I always use a anti-seize (sparingly) on the threads. I torqued all six to 10 lb/ft and then to 16lb/ft. The plugs that I removed were probably the originals and had no lubrication. They were the same NGK part number but with a "BMW" logo on the side. The breakaway torque to get them to release was surprisingly high although they all came out cleanly. As almost all of the thread was uniformly brown, I would presume that they were lubed with engine oil before installation.

I have had galled threads on a number of Formula Vee heads over the years (and even old Porsches) and have never experienced an electrical issue with anti-seize. The torque sequence that I use has worked for years, even in these very old aluminum heads. It is my understanding that spark plugs utilize the long thread to provide a gas seal and the crush washer to provide the locking moment.

Just my 2 cents. I thought it was a very good article. I would be curious about others experience with after market coils.