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      03-27-2011, 08:50 PM   #25
Finnegan
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Drives: Z4M/. Z3M, E36/46 M3
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Teaching the dog to slalom

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Quote:
Originally Posted by XMetal View Post
Getting an extra 105 degree would almost mean that you would need a "breaker" bar of sort? I'm somewhat hesitant to attempt this as I'm afraid of stripping the bolt and/or support bracket. I definitely don't want to stripped anything on the firewall side as I'm not sure how that can be repaired if that happens.
I hear you. This bothered me as well, but it also bothered me that it wouldn't really be tightened to spec at the initial torque value. So I performed my initial pre-load of the bolts (initial torque). Initial torque setting is 41 ft lbs (56nm).

After the pre-load I just set my torque wrench to 75 ft. lbs (figured it would be nowhere near that torque value and used that as my lever) and turned the bolt ~1/4 turn.

I made a little jig with a sticky note and a protractor so I'd keep a close eye on my "angle torque"--I marked the bolt with a sharpie, lined up my "0 degree point" of the bolt and wrench, turned to the ~90 degree point on my jig and was done. I used one fluid motion (as multiple attempts will weaken the bolt as they're one use bolts).

The torque wrench never engaged the click on the 75 ft. pound setting on the wrench either and wasn't really all the hard to turn (for me).

I could have bought an angle torque meter but since the SIB said 105 +- 15 degrees I shot for just a tad over ~90 degrees and was done with it.

Here are the two types of fasteners in case anyone is interested. The first photo is the "old" version and the next the "new" version with the one-use bolts.
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